Hull work

Saturday was a nice cool fall day.  That turned out to be a good thing, as I planned to use copious amounts of elbow grease.  The first chore was to sand the entire hull, getting rid of any glue lumps.  Once that’s done, then it’s time to fill all the screw holes.  I used silicon bronze screws on the outer stem, the keel, each garboard alongside the keel, and on the fore and aft ends of each strake.  To plug the holes, I mixed some epoxy and added a thickener that’s supposed to be relatively easy to sand.  When I got done with this step, the boat looked like it had the measles.

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2016-11-05 Filling the screw holes.

Time to think ahead.  When I turn the boat over, it would be very convenient to have the gunwales installed, as that will help stiffen up the boat.  The gunwales sit on the top outside edge of the shearstrake.  This boat will also have a rubbing strip or rail along the bottom edge of the shearstrake.  Wee Lass also has this lower strip, and it really looks nice. The plans for Tammie Norrie show the strip to be a little beefier than that on Wee Lass, but that’s all good.   The lower strip really needs to be cut out and glued on before gluing on the gunwale, so I can hold it in place with my clamps.

The first step is to widen my clamps.  The clamps worked fine for gluing on the strakes, but the increased width of the rubbing strip was too much.  No problem, I had some thin scraps of douglas fir which needed to be put to good use or go in the trash can.  A cordless drill and some sheetrock screws made the job easy.  The result isn’t very elegant, but is mission-adequate.

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Clamp on the left was used for hanging the strakes; the one on right was widened.

The rubbing strip will be made of 5/8″ square cherry, and bright-finished (varnished).  Before I spend too much time making the rubbing strip, it seemed a good idea to make a test piece to test the proof of concept.  Rule #4 comes into play here.  Cherry qualifies as Very Expensive wood, so I took a scrap of left-over douglas fir for the test piece.  A short piece was milled to 5/8″ square, and I decided that a 1/8″ chamfer on the two sides would be appropriate.  Some sandpaper and more elbow grease would transform the chamfers into smooth rounded surfaces.  Finally I need to practice that bevel cut where the rubbing strip meets the outer stem.

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2016-11-05 Lower rubbing strip test piece.

This worked well, so now it’s time to shape the cherry pieces that will be used.  But by now the sun is getting low, so that will have to wait until next weekend.

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