It’s been awhile since I had a chance to get some work done on Tammie Norrie. The second coat of paint has been applied, and the boat looks beautiful. Now let’s see if we can keep the bottom from getting scratched up, at least not too much.
I installed brass half-oval banding on the stem and keel of Wee Lass, and it seemed to work well. Yes, it’s made of brass, and not bronze, but it seemed to wear well despite spending most of it’s time in salt water and not fresh. Tammie Norrie would also get half-oval banding.
Although the banding was brass, I used silicon bronze screws to attach the half-oval. There’s several things you need to keep in mind about bronze screws:
– bronze screws are much more expensive than steel, or even stainless, screws. I paid 40 cents each(!) for #6 by 1/2″ screws.
– they’re much softer than steel screws, so it’s much easier to over-torque and sheer a screw. Sheering a screw generally happens at a critical location, and is always a royal pain to remove. This in turn leads to unpleasant vocabulary.
Keeping the above in mind, I decided to “practice” drilling holes and driving screws in scrap material before I made any serious goofs on the boat. I tried drilling the pilot hole into the half-oval and the wood at the same time, but the right combination seemed to be drill the hole and countersink in the half-oval first, then lay the strip onto the wood and then drill the smallest possible pilot hole for the screw. That worked well for the skeg, keel, and bilge runners, but the stem facing was made of ash – so, practice again. After I was confident I had a good system, installing the half-oval went without any difficulty. The banding looks nice and shiny now, so it gives the boat a little bit of bling. Later it will get a nice patina.
I ended the banding at the lower edge of the sheerstrake; after the boat is turned upright a bow eye will be installed on the flat face of the stem with a small piece of banding above it. That won’t occur until the upper portion of the stem is cut and sanded to it’s final shape.
Making the cradles
When the boat gets turned right side up, it will still sit on the building jig, but will be supported by cradles. From looking at the plans, I decided the most convenient places to place the cradles were at Stations 2 and 6. After the boat is set in it’s cradles and leveled, some additional blocking could be added to support the length of the keel.
To make the cradles, I turned back to the mylar lofting I had done at the beginning of the project. The mylar sheets had the shapes of each of the molds, and I had drawn out each of the strakes onto the molds. I laid out the mylar on a fresh sheet of plywood and decided that for convenience, the building jig should be at 12″ below the Design Water Line (DWL). A centerline was drawn onto the plywood, the mylar laid in it’s correct location, and an awl used to mark the edges of the strakes. A sharpie pen connected the dots. Flip the mylar over to the other side of centerline and repeat the process. The plywood likes to splinter when you cut it, so use a fine-tooth blade on the jig saw.
The next step will be a milestone. Turnover Day is coming.